Do you know the collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh?｜你知道發生在孟加拉的倒塌事件嗎？
This video is taken by BBC Panorama for recording the well-known collapse accident in Bangladesh in 2013, result in many factories collapsed and over 1,100 workers died, 2,500 injured. It rises consumers' attention to track this dark page. The factories of Rana Plaza are mostly producing garment for western brands, such as Edinburgh Woolen Mill, Primark...etc. After that, some of western brands were blamed that they didn’t take responsibility to pay compensation. This accident awake consumers to be aware of the issues behind products and against further inhuman manufacturers.
這個影片由BBC Panorama執導,記錄2013年在孟加拉發生的倒塌意外事件,共造成1100多名工人死亡。這起事件使消費者開始關注平價時尚背後的故事。倒塌的Rana Plaza大樓位於孟加拉薩瓦區,為許多知名的西方品牌代工製造成衣,如蘇格蘭羊毛品牌Edinburgh Woolen Mill, 英國平價服飾品牌Primark等。事件發生後,這些品牌被質疑並沒有適當的安置補償金給罹難工人,於是越來越多人開始正視這個議題。
Through the video it is clear to know that there is a big gap of communication for both brands and manufacturers due to some of hidden processes. Plus the far distance, the collaborative relationship sometimes depends on the cheapest offer and soonest lead time that factory can reach, which neglect the product's quality and additional sustainability. The common issues happen in Bangladesh such as:
Unsafe working conditions- Most of manufactures didn’t have fire safety certificate that result many workers died in fires. Moreover, in order to avoid steal issue, some of employers lock the gate of factories which cause many workers can’t escape from the fire.
Working overtime problems- Manufactures didn’t follow the code of conduct from international brands which not only conceal overtime problems and claimed that workers are compliant to take extra shift. The standard of working hour should be 8 hours/per day but some of labours work over 12 hours or more a day.
Unfair wages- Wages problem is a controversial problems that involves much elements in it, such as government's policy, industry development...etc, which obviously couldn't sort out by any single side. Currently the minimum wages in Cambodia/Bangladesh is US$60-75, in order to earn more money for living expense, workers have no choice to do overtime.
Discrimination- Some of manufactures dismiss female employee who get pregnant in order to avoid to give maternity leave with pay.
從此記錄片中可以了解,在製造過程中很多流程是不透明的,造成品牌與製造商之間溝通不良,而又因為距離遙遠,使得彼此的合作關係只建構在便宜成本價格及快速的交期,而忽略了品質及其他社會責任問題。在孟加拉不平等的勞工議題還包含：
不安全的工作環境 － 多數的工廠沒有認可的防火設備,至今已發生過多起火警而工人無法逃出之意外。為了防止員工偷竊,有些工廠甚至會在上班時間將大門上鎖,而這也是釀成火警悲劇的原因之一。
超時工作 － 儘管品牌有明訂供應商行為準則,但有些工廠並沒有據實遵守,而是隱匿超時的問題並在事後指出工人是自願加班。正常的工作時數為8小時,但大部分的工人實際上一天工作12小時甚至更多。
不平等的工資 － 工資一直以來都是一個很有爭議的問題,部分原因是調整工資與否所牽涉的層面太廣,例如政府政策,產業發展程度...等,顯然無法靠單一方面解決。而目前在孟加拉/柬埔寨地區的最低基本工資約為US$60-75,這些工人為了平衡家計而不得不妥協於超時工作。
歧視 － 很多工廠因為不想支付已婚婦女有薪產假,故在得知女性員工懷孕時即將她解雇。
After knowing the process of manufacturing, will you still support cheap-fashion?
了解這些隱藏在背後的過程後,你還購買這些平價品牌嗎？